The skincare industry moves at a glacial pace and is notoriously underregulated (something we’re passionate about changing). As a result, you may find pointless or even dangerous ingredients hidden behind technical names and misleading umbrella terms.

For example, formaldehyde, a well-known carcinogen, is still used in many hair and cosmetic products but not under its own name. As we’ve mentioned previously, the formula is as important as the ingredients. Quaternium-15 and bronopol are both preservatives, and both are formaldehyde-releasing agents. Meaning they produce formaldehyde when combined with other ingredients.

Here are some more ingredients to take note of (and the tricks used to hide them) :

PEGs

There’s a lot of fear-mongering about polyethylene glycol (PG) and butylene glycol (BG), more commonly known as PEGs. These ingredients are inactive fillers used in many products, and research has shown that they are a low-impact product (although they sometimes cause irritation as they’re petroleum derived). This is why manufacturers are allowed to continue using them, but the real issue is ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane – two byproducts of PEG manufacturing. 

Simply, the process of ethoxylation exposes the product to ethylene oxide, which reduces the harshness of the product. This procedure can create 1,4-dioxane- some of which may remain in the final product.

Ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane are known cancer-causing products, with the former used in antifreeze and pesticides. 

Because both are byproducts of the original ingredient (the PEG), manufacturers do not need to put them on the label.

Phthalates 

A wonderful ingredient, Phthalates serve multiple purposes. It’s a preservative that increases the shelf life of products exponentially and increases the effectiveness of certain ingredients by helping them cling to the skin or hair for longer. From a manufacturing standpoint, it means companies can create more product which get better results and have a longer shelf life. Making a product in bulk is always more cost-effective.

The only problem is that phthalates are endocrine disruptors. Meaning, that they can disrupt the hormonal, immune and neurological systems, decrease thyroid function and increase the chances of eczema and asthma in children.

It’s not common for companies to list phthalates on their ingredient list. Dibutyl phthalate and diethyl phthalate are obvious red flags. Instead, look for the following abbreviations:

• DEP
• BBP
• DBP 
• DiDP 
• DnHP 

Oxybenzone

If your skincare offers UV production, look for an ingredient called Oxybenzone. A quick Google search will show a lot of huge, brand name businesses saying that it’s a safe ingredient and an awful lot of research showing that either it’s not, or that a lot more research is required.

Here’s the problem. Tests have shown that Oxybenzone stays on your skin far longer than you would reasonably expect. We’re talking weeks. Now, this may sound good because sunscreen is good, right? Absolutely, but Oxybenzone may actually be absorbed into the skin (again, remaining for weeks) and can cause contact dermatitis, hormone disruption and skin allergies.

Remember, read the ingredients. We also encourage you to do your own research. There are numerous academic papers and reputable blogs out there to help you learn more about your skin health.